吃蟹的季節:6 個在家享用大閘蟹的技巧

6 個在家享用大閘蟹的技巧
6 個在家享用大閘蟹的技巧

Tatler Taiwan / By Wilson Fok

關於如何享用大閘蟹的美味,我們毫不藏私地一次揭露

每年 10 月到 12 月是大閘蟹產季,這種小小的淡水甲殼類動物又稱為中華绒螯蟹,多見於長江下游,聚集在江蘇省的陽澄湖一帶,最大的特徵莫過於牠毛茸茸的螯。每年此時,螃蟹愛好者總會無所不用其極地想辦法一品大閘蟹的鮮美,無論是蒸煮,還是運用大閘蟹的肉和蟹黃來入菜,都令人垂涎。

用細繩綑綁的新鮮大閘蟹是季節性很強的食材,而且很適合與家人朋友一同享用,往常,大家總會聚再一起吃濃郁的蟹黃,還有藏在蟹殼和螯裡的甘美蟹肉。有句俗話說:「九月圓臍十月尖,圓為母蟹、尖為公蟹。」就是指母蟹和公蟹最佳的品嚐時機。母蟹的腹部比較圓,每到這個季節之前,母蟹就已經儲備了特別飽滿的蟹黃,對於食客來說,金黃色的蟹黃實在美味,甚至可比擬海膽。而腹部尖尖的公蟹就比母蟹晚成熟,裡頭白糊糊的則是蟹膏,也就是牠的生殖腺體,質地黏稠,不過味道倒沒有鱈魚白子那麼重。

隨著大家對於大閘蟹料理的期待越來越濃厚,以下就分享幾個訣竅,讓你在家也能舒適地享用大閘蟹。

新鮮是必須

記得要趁新鮮享用!感覺超基本,但其實非常重要,因為當螃蟹死了之後,寄生蟲和細菌會開始產生組織胺。其中一個確認大閘蟹是否新鮮的方法,就是在買之前先看看螃蟹的嘴巴附近有沒有吐泡泡。

全熟很重要

適量就好

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Hairy crab seasonnnn has well and truly descended on us! 🦀 From what I've gathered over the years (feel free to correct me), it's actually a misnomer to call that yellow stuff under the umbrella term of 'roe'. In fact, that yellow paste is actually the 'crab butter'/蟹黄 consisting of the digestive organs (the tomalley) and reproductive organs of the crab (which may include the eggs if female crabs are used and the white stuff if male crabs are used - see below). So basically yellow = tomalley + roe! Also bear in mind that the sticky white glue (which I loveeee) are found only in male crabs and are their semen/reproductive glands (yum...spit or swallow?). But tbh I don't really care cos it's delicious anyway - you could call it a neon flying cow for all I care, so long as I get to eat some! Here, Tien Heung Lau serves up hairy crab in various instaworthy shapes and forms, with the most popular probably being the pure roe/crab butter/neon flying cow on a plate and mixed in with noodles. Also loved the Longjing-leaf stir fried river shrimps, each bouncy and rather large morsel imparting a distinct, delicate tea fragrance - more difficult to do than it sounds! Also loveloveloved the crispy eel in a sweet caramel sauce. Whilst I wouldn't quite call it a McNugget as @abelchlam and @ho_la_ho_sik did, this was certainly crazily addictive and had me going for more! I've already made my bookings to enjoy male crabs in November! ———— 🦐 Long-jing stir fried river shrimp (⭐) 🥦 Wild vegetable leaf 馬蘭頭 (a little too heavy on the sesame oil for me) 🐦 Drunken pigeon (delicious) (⭐) 🐍 Crispy eel(⭐) 🐷 Dongpo pork 🦀 Neon flying cow with noodles 🍡 Glutinous rice balls in syrup with fruit (not sure why I finished this, given that the syrup consisted of tinned pineapples and my mortal enemy banana - something about this is strangely good lol) 📍Tin Heung Lau 🇭🇰18C Austin Ave, Tsim Sha Tsui ———— #dfTST #dflHongKong

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大閘蟹的蟹肉和蟹黃有豐富的維生素 A、B、蛋白質、鈣質和鐵,但也含有許多脂肪和膽固醇,所以雖然會忍不住想多買幾隻回家,但還是克制一點吧!一餐最好不要超過一隻大的大閘蟹(約 225 克)。

平衡是關鍵

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✨GINGER FOR GUT HEALTH & IMMUNE SUPPORT✨⁠ Ginger root (or more accurately, ginger rhizome), is one of the most ubiquitous botanicals in healing traditions around the world. 𝙕𝙞𝙣𝙜𝙞𝙗𝙚𝙧 𝙤𝙛𝙛𝙞𝙘𝙞𝙣𝙖𝙡𝙞𝙨 is affordable, widely available, and familiar in its flavor, making it a highly democratic herb. Whether for calming an upset stomach or easing morning sickness, ginger is a go-to for many digestive complaints. A hot cup of ginger tea helps soothe the throat and break up phlegm to support the respiratory tract. Its warming, anti-inflammatory properties also make it an ally for aching joints, especially when combined with turmeric, boswellia, black pepper, and/or rosemary. WE WANT TO KNOW: What’s your favorite way to use ginger?⁠ .⁠ In Traditional Chinese Medicine, 𝙎𝙝𝙚𝙣𝙜 𝙅𝙞𝙖𝙣𝙜 (fresh ginger) or 𝙂𝙖𝙣 𝙅𝙞𝙖𝙣𝙜 (dry ginger) is acrid in flavor and warm in temperature. TCM recommends ginger to release the exterior and disperse cold (i.e., break a sweat!), to warm the middle and alleviate vomiting, and to warm the lungs and calm cough. It is added to many formulas as a harmonizer that buffers against any toxicity or potential digestive upset from other herbs. You can find ginger in many of our tincture formulas that integrate Chinese and Western traditions, including our popular Rectify Qi, a stomach-supporting blend we consider essential during the upcoming season of holiday stress and feasting. 🌿TAP THE LINK IN OUR BIO🧪 to get Rectify Qi 15% off for the month of November!⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ .⁠ #ginger #freshginger #shengjiang #guthealth #gutflora #tcm #traditionalchinesemedicine #ChineseMedicine #herbalism #qi #fallfeast #immunesupport #antiinflammatory #inflammation #jointhealth #turmeric #gingerroot #gingertea #tinctures #plantmedicine #naturalhealth #folkremedy #traditionalremedy #angelicaroot #licoriceroot #healthmadeeasy #acupuncture #apothecary #herbaltincture #herbalextract

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就中醫的理論來看,所有的食物都有分成熱寒性,所以最好依據食物的屬性來吃,以免過熱或過寒,像是過寒就容易導致腸胃不適或暈眩。而大閘蟹就屬於寒性的食物,這也是為什麼平常吃的時候,都會搭配薑或紫蘇葉,因為這些食材可以幫助緩和大閘蟹的寒。

搭配飲品的方法

除了上段提到的食材,也有人喜歡在吃蟹的時候搭配花雕酒,並避免酷涼的啤酒。如果不喝酒,也可以搭配薑茶,用薑和紅糖一起沖泡即可。

千萬不要和這項食材一起吃

除了避免在吃蟹的時候喝涼飲,也有很多人認為如果同時吃柿子,會對性命造成威脅。其實這是有原因的,柿子含有大量的丹寧,如果和大閘蟹裡豐富的蛋白質結合,會凝結成塊,導致嘔吐和消化不良。

6 個在家享用大閘蟹的技巧
6 個在家享用大閘蟹的技巧

Photo: Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong

對大閘蟹多一些認識,就能更聰明放鬆地享受。正值產季的大閘蟹完全就是此時該好好享用的美味呀!不過,這些都只是基本,一旦熟悉了,接下來就是學著如何把拆散挖光的蟹殼重組成一隻好端端的蟹。真正厲害的本領,就是剝蟹的時候,不會把殼碎成一地!你,覺得這個挑戰怎麼樣呢?

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